How I Design a Custom Tank Mounting Tab in Fusion 360

How I Design a Custom Tank Mounting Tab in Fusion 360
Shop Build · Fabrication

How I Design a Custom Tank Mounting Tab in Fusion 360

A repeatable way to make a one-off bracket fit perfect the first time — using a photo, one known hole, and a little CAD.

By Cody Kemmet · Hawg Supply · Project: Bobby Shovelhead

Mounting a gas tank on a custom chopper always comes down to the little stuff — the tabs. You can't buy a bracket that lands exactly where your tank sits on your frame, so you've got to make one. Here's the exact process I use to design a custom tank mounting tab in Fusion 360, from snapping a phone pic all the way to a part I can hold up against the bike and check.

The patient — a Shovelhead chopper in the works. The tank's where I want it; now it needs a tab to hold it down on the back side.

The whole trick to this method is using something on the bike you already know the size of as a reference. Get that right and everything you draw comes out to real-world scale. For me that's almost always a bolt hole. Let me walk you through it.


01. Snap a photo and drop it into Fusion

First thing I do is take a clean, straight-on picture of the area I'm building the tab for. Try to shoot it square — get the camera as perpendicular to the mounting area as you can so the photo isn't distorted. The flatter your angle, the more accurate everything downstream is going to be.

Then I bring that photo into Fusion 360 as a canvas (Insert → Canvas). Now I've got the real bike sitting right there in my sketch environment to trace over.

Photo of the mounting area imported as a canvas in Fusion 360. This becomes the backdrop I design on top of.

02. Set your reference datum — the known hole

This is the most important step, so don't skip it. A photo on its own has no scale — Fusion has no idea if that tank is six inches or six feet. So I give it something it can trust.

My datum is the mounting hole. I know it's a 5/16" hole, so I draw a 5/16" circle right on top of it in the photo. Then I scale the canvas image up or down until the hole in the picture lines up perfectly with my 5/16" circle. The second those two match, the entire photo is now to scale — every line I draw from here on out is a real measurement.

A 5/16" circle drawn over the known mounting hole. Scale the canvas to this circle and the whole image is now true to size.

Why this works

One feature you can measure in the real world — a bolt hole, a bung, a known bar diameter — is all you need. Match the canvas to it and you've turned a phone snapshot into a scaled drawing. Garbage reference in, garbage part out, so pick something you've actually verified with calipers.

03. Design the tab around the tank

Now the fun part. With the image scaled, I sketch the tab right over the photo, following the curvature of the tank so the top edge hugs it where I want them to meet. I start from that reference hole and build the shape out to the contour of the tank and down to the frame.

Tracing the tab outline over the canvas, following the tank's curve up top and working back to the mounting hole.

Once the outer profile's locked in, I clean it up and add a lightening hole in the middle — knocks out some weight and honestly just looks better than a solid blob of steel. This is where you make it yours.

Final profile with a lightening hole cut in. The shape's dialed and ready to turn into a real part.

Time to mock it up — two ways to do it

Once the design's done, I want to hold it up to the bike before I ever cut steel. There are two ways I go about this, depending on what you've got in the shop.

A. 3D print it (my favorite) B. Print & cut on paper (no printer needed)

Method A
Extrude it and send it to the 3D printer

My go-to is to extrude the sketch to whatever thickness I want the finished tab — say 3/16" or 1/4" — and now I've got a solid 3D model of the part.

Sketch extruded to thickness — a full 3D model of the tab.

Send that to the 3D printer and a little while later you've got a physical part in your hand. It's not the final steel piece, but it's a perfect mock-up to check fit and proportions.

The printed tab. Cheap plastic, but dimensionally it's exactly what the steel one will be.

Then I bolt it right up to the bike. This is the payoff — if the photo was square and the reference hole was right, the tab drops in and meets the tank exactly where it should. If something's a hair off, I tweak the model and reprint. Way cheaper to find out now than after you've cut and welded.

Printed tab bolted up and checked against the tank. Lands right where I designed it to.

Method B
No 3D printer? Print it 1:1 and cut it out

Don't have a printer? No problem — you can still mock this up with nothing but paper and scissors. Take your tab and create a drawing in Fusion 360, and here's the key: set the scale to 1:1. That makes the printout the exact real-world size of your part.

A drawing of the tab in Fusion 360 set to 1:1 scale. Note the scale in the title block — that's what makes this work.

Print it out on regular paper. Because it's 1:1, what comes out of the printer is dead-on the size of the tab.

The 1:1 printout. Same footprint as the part you're about to build.

Cut the shape out with a pair of scissors. Now you've got a paper template of your tab.

Cutting the template out. A craft project that just happens to live on the welding table.

Hold that paper template up to the bike and check it against the tank, just like you would the printed part. You can mark it up, trim it, hold it at different spots — it's a quick, dirt-cheap way to confirm the shape before you commit to steel.

Paper template checked against the tank. Same confidence as the 3D print, none of the hardware.

The takeaway

Whether you print it in plastic or in paper, the magic is all in that one known reference. Scale your photo off something real, design to the tank's actual curve, and mock it up before you cut. Do that and your one-off tabs come out right the first time — no guessing, no wasted steel.

Build along with us

This tab is one small piece of the Shovelhead build. I'll keep documenting the fab work as it comes together — same approach, one part at a time.

Questions on the process or the parts I'm running? Reach out anytime at hawgsupply.com.

Harley Flywheel Shop BALANCING · TRUEING · TORQUE SPECS — SHOVELHEAD / PANHEAD / KNUCKLEHEAD / SPORTSTER

Flywheel Balancing Calculator

Static balancing the S&S Cycle way. Weigh every part in grams, enter them below, and the calculator returns the bobweight to bolt into each flywheel — plus a suggested shim stack from the S&S balance kit.

Job Info

Reciprocating Parts up & down

Rotating Parts circular

Weigh each rod end with the rod centerline level (pointer at zero). Crankpin end is roughly twice the wrist-pin end.

Balance Factor

S&S recommends 60%. Below ~50% the engine tends to vibrate vertically; raising the factor shifts vibration toward horizontal, which most riders find less noticeable. 60% is the all-around street compromise.

The S&S Formula

Bobweight per flywheel = [ (Balance Factor × Reciprocating Weight) + Rotating Weight ] ÷ 2

Reciprocating weight =both pistons (piston + pin + clips + rings) + wrist-pin end of both rods
Rotating weight =crankpin + nuts + bearings + cages + key + locks/screws + crankpin end of both rods
Drill the heavy spot to remove material. S&S forged steel wheels: holes ≥ ⅛" from the rim, ⅛" apart, leave ⁵⁄₁₆" of material so you don't break through. Cast-iron stock wheels: holes ≥ ¼" from rim, ¼" apart. Never drill deeper than ¼" near the crankpin hole. Magnaflux for cracks if in doubt.

Method and figures per S&S Cycle Balance Kit Instruction Sheet No. 5010. For off-road / racing builds; verify against the current factory manual for your engine.

Flywheel Torque Specs by Year

Pick an engine era. Values are pulled straight from the factory service manuals in this shop, in foot-pounds (ft·lb) unless noted. Heads up: the early manuals don't publish a numeric flywheel torque — they tell you to draw the nuts "very tight" — so those eras list the factory fits & clearances instead.

Timing Marks (S&S flywheels)

Big TwinF & R marks = 35° BTDC (front / rear). TF = TDC front.
Ironhead SportsterF & R marks = 40° BTDC. TF = TDC front.
V2 (Evo) SportsterF & R marks = 30° BTDC. TF = TDC front.
Mark centered in the timing hole = the stated BTDC figure. Mark toward the rear of the hole advances ~5°; mark just leaving the hole retards ~5°. S&S suggests timing big-inch engines at 30–32° BTDC.

Sources: 1948-57 EL/FL Panhead, 1959-69 FL Duo-Glide/Electra-Glide, and 1970-78 FL/FLH Shovelhead factory service manuals (this shop's PDFs); S&S Cycle Instruction Sheets No. 2002 & 5010. Always cross-check the manual for your exact model.

Flywheel Trueing Guide

Trueing removes runout so the mainshafts spin dead-true between centers. Always measure on the mainshaft bearing surfaces — never the flywheel rims.

What you need

Truing stand or lathe centersto support both mainshafts between centers
Two dial indicators0.0001″ or 0.0005″ resolution, on the bearing surfaces
Lead / brass / soft hammernever steel directly on the rim
Wedge & pry barto spread the wheels when correcting
Target: S&S trues to 0.0005″ or less on either mainshaft bearing surface. Factory H-D spec of 0.001″ is acceptable but tighter is better.

Procedure

  1. Mount between centers

    Place the assembled flywheels on the truing stand with both mainshafts supported between centers. Make sure centers and shafts are clean.

  2. Set the indicators

    Position one dial indicator on each mainshaft's bearing surface (the area the main bearings ride on), close to the flywheel. Zero them.

  3. Rotate and read runout

    Slowly turn the assembly a full revolution. Note total indicator movement (TIR) and where each high spot falls. Sprocket and pinion sides may differ.

  4. Diagnose the error

    Both indicators high at the same point usually means the wheels are out of parallel (one taper sitting deeper). Indicators high 180° apart means the crankpin holes are mis-aligned (offset). Determine which before correcting.

  5. Correct — offset (pin holes not aligned)

    Tap the rim of the appropriate wheel toward the low side with a lead hammer to walk the wheels into line. Small, repeated taps. Re-read after each.

  6. Correct — out of parallel (squeeze / spread)

    To close a gap, squeeze the rims together at the high point in a press or vise (soft jaws). To open, drive a wedge between the wheels at the correct point. Re-read.

  7. Chase it down

    Work the largest error first, recheck both indicators each time, and converge toward ≤ 0.0005″. Expect to alternate between offset and parallel corrections.

  8. Final verify

    Confirm both bearing surfaces read at or under spec through a full rotation, and recheck connecting-rod side play (0.015″–0.035″) once trued.

If you must strike the rim, use a lead hammer — a dented rim can make it impossible to recondition the mainshaft tapers later. Don't take runout readings on the rims; rim runout is not a valid indication of mainshaft concentricity.

Trueing guidance per S&S Cycle General Flywheel Instruction Sheet No. 2002. Practice and feel matter — this is a guide, not a substitute for experience or the factory manual.

Harley Flywheel Shop — reference tool for experienced builders. Always verify against the factory service manual for your engine. Balancing & spec data adapted from S&S Cycle instruction sheets No. 2002 & No. 5010.